The recall began February 7, 2019. Owners may contact Nissan customer service at 1-800-867-7669. Summary: Nissan of North America, Inc (Nissan) is recalling certain 2009 Murano vehicles.
John is a professional engineer with 50 years experience.John has designed and built many cars, trucks, and vehicle assembly facilities.John has worked on design of roads, bridges, cranes, transmission towers, and buildings, and operation, maintenance and upgrade of hydro and gas turbine power stations.John was a LVV Certifier for 13 years. John has long been a whistle-blower, expressing the view that the LVV system is dangerously deficient. John’s authority was revoked in December 2012.John rides a 1992 Yamaha FJ1200ABS, and is also a keen road and off road cyclist.
Crack Think3 2009 Nissan Engine
DisclaimerThe opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors and forum participants on this web site do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of the owners of this website or official policies of the owners of this website2. Copyright Statement and PolicyA. The author of each article published on this web site owns his or her own words.B.
Nissan SR20DETThere are the six cylinder cars- Skyline, Laurel and Cefiro, and the four cylinder cars – Sylvia, 200SX, 180 SX, all available with and without turbo.The sixes (the RB’s) come on 2 litre 2.5 litre, 2.6 litre (the Godzilla) and 3 litre (Aussie Nissans and Holdens) It is possible to build a RB30DET by taking an aussie 3 litre block and fitting an RB25DET head. Hey John,I have a mazda b6t FWD 323 wagon 1989 model, i’m planning to take this 100kw turbo engine out of this wagon and place it in a non-turbo mazda 323 sedan 4WD 1995 model which currently has a 79kw b6 engine.
No modification to the mounts or engine bay is required (same engine block and head, just a turbo bolted on basically and a lower compression ratio) (4wd gearbox bolts straight up to). I was wanting to know if anything needed upgrading in the way of brakes or anything else before i get a cert for it. The rest of the the 1995 mazda sedan is straight stock standard.
Also how much does a cert cost? And is there a cost to re-do it if you fail the first time?. Hi NicholasSounds like a pretty straightforward Certification. The LVV Requirements for brakes is to perform 3 stops from 100 kph, I think that your standard brakes would cope, although if you could get a set of the bigger brakes now would be a good time to fit them.At John Brett Technology (Low Volume Vehicle Certification) we aske that you present the car in a WOF condition- and recommend that you get a WOF check done first to be sure. That way you are likely to get a pass on the first LVV Inspection. We don’t charge extra if a recheck is needed, but obviously don’t want to be doing repeated re-checks for WOF items. Phone us on 0800 LOWVOLUME to discuss prices, and appointments available.
Thank-you for the promp reply!The GTS25 came out as a non-turbo model of the GTS25T, with 4stud hubs instead of 5, and the Weaker rb20DET varient gearbox. Hopefully everything else will be upto spec aswell. I understand That I will also need to fit a catalyctic (sp?) converter and catch can to pass??Another slight worry i have is the chassis rails (or what i think are chassis rails) seem to have been crushed in ever so slightly on both sides in the same place, almost as though someone has hit a speed bump and bottomed out?
Will this be an issue? It never has been with WOF’s.
Hi- this is a pretty common conversion- with no big Certification problems. Was it Certified with the converted motor? If it was, then there is no need for a new Cert, as you have just done a “Repair” by changing the engine same for same.If it was NOT Certed, then to get Certed you will need – two driveshaft loops, and a Catalytic Converter. Brakes are usually OK whether standard or changed, any suspension or wheel changes have be Certed, any seat changes.
Phone us on 0800 LOWVOLUME (0800 569865). Hi– in answer – the Emissions test is needed IF you have changed the engine, but NOT if you have modified an existing engine. The braking test is to do 3 stops from 100 kph, and some Holdens are a bit marginal. You might be OK if you fit high performance brake pads- a good brake shop should be able to advise. You WILL need Driveshaft safety loops, two if a two piece driveshaft, at the front end. Fan- you DO need a finger guard over the top of the fan.
There are NO set clearances between intercooler piping and pulleys, it is just a matter of reliability- is it going to hit and damage something? Hope this helps. Hi John,I have been restoring a 1973 Mitsubishi Galant Colt GTO. I have an SR20DET lined up ready do go into it and wondered if I should be looking at getting a pair of ‘Modern Brakes’ for the car aswell. As I am told that this is a good idea to get the engine/brakes all certed at the same time, due to the cost of certing it.If so what kind of brakes would you recommend?
And have you done something like this before? With repowering old classics with modern engines?Thanks,Craig.
That an oldie! Why not use a Mitsi motor like a 4G63, it will be all Mitsubishi that way.
The turbo motor will make that car a real handful, I would stick with a non-turbo motor just for safety.The LVV Test is 3 or 5 stops from 100 k to 0, the standard brakes may just pass, but it would be far better to look for better ones. I don’t know what fits, but start with a Mitsi wrecker, and look for bigger discs and calipers from some later Mitsi, say an Eterna or Sigma. The best plan is to ask ask ask, there could be some stetup you can bolt on. If you need to adapt the calipers, its OK to get brackets made up, try to avoid welding, get them machined from a solid block.I would suggest sticking with the standard rear brakes, it’s the fronts that do all the work, also you don’t want to end up with too much braking at the rear because you will get rear wheels locking, which is dangerous.Whatever you can find, remember that you have to get a wheel over it- you might want to go to say 17″ wheels just to clear the calipers, remember that floating calipers need room to float. Don’t get trapped into needing spacers or adaptors just to clear the brakes- the wheels might look good sticking out, but too much offset basically stuffs up the steering and handling. Good luck, John. Is this a 5M-GE?
This would be a simple swap to Certify, basically it comes down to common sense. The weight, power output, and size would be similar to the original engine, so no concerns there. I have no idea how the engine mounts line up, but if you make a sensible job, of (say) adapting the Toyota mounts to the Rover mouting points, and similar for the gearbox, there should be no issues.
You would need to have the driveshaft modification done by a driveshaft specialist, produce the receipts, ALSO fit a Driveshaft safety loop. Exhaust Emissions: Keep the engine’s PCV valve and crankcase ventilation system. Catalytic Converter not needed. On-road Emissions test required, so keep the fuel system all standard for the engine.
Regards John Brett. Hi John i spoke to you the other day thanks for the great info i forgot where you had mentioned to place the safety loops for the drive shaft and also i see on your other comments that a brake upgrade it not neccesary as the standard 4 stud skyline brake setups are ok but im planning on upgrading the turbo and putting a big front mount intercooler and upgrading the computer would i then require a brake upgrade to the 5 stud setup? And also will i be needing a catalytic converter for the exhaust system? I also intend on changing the seats to some aftermarket seats what are the requirements for the mounting? Is there also a requirement for certing for bodykits?.
Hi Elvis Peter- It is best to phone us and go through your vehicle. Safety loops have to be within 150mm of the front joint, of each section of driveshaft. Brake upgrade- The LVV Standard requires us to TEST the brakes- 3 or 5 stops from 100 kph. MY experience of Skylines is that the smaller brakes will pass, but obviously fitting the bgger brakes is better. You also have to meet the Exhaust gas Emissions standard, which requires a Cat, plus the standard crankcase ventilation system (no catch-cans) The Certifier has to do an onroad emissions test also. For seats, ther problems arise when rails are changed. The new rails may not be strong enough for the seatbelt buckle, so we ask you to bracket the buckle back to the floor mounting point of the seat.
If your skyline is a 2 door, there needs to be a folding seat for access to the rear. Bodykits are not usually an issue, but a ‘frontal impact compliant car’ needs to retain all the front structure, bumper beam, etc, no changes to chassis rails. Hope this helps – John. Hey john some good info you have up there mate just a few questions im doing a swap on a 1985 nissan r31 skyline passage its the japenese version.
Im putting a rb25det in it i have one with 300kw would you be able to tell me what i need for a cert?it came out with a rb20e automatic it was converted to manual and certed but the old owner never picked up the cert plate i think i still have the paper though. I gather i need drive shaft hoops and im going to put bigger brakes up the front but it is drum brake in the rear so i dont want to have to change all brakes will just better fronts be ok?. Hi cheers for the quick reply john. Ok i will upgrade the fronts only will put bigger brakes from a newer skyline i also need somewhere for my intercooler piping to go my batery bracket has been removed due to batery going in boot but is it ok to cut a round hole in where it was? I see someone else has asked this to but didnt quite get the answer something to do with a crash test or something i have seen holes cut before but is it just better to try and find another way for the piping to run?cheers for the info.
Hi John, great site you are running here!I have a R32 GTR, which came from Japan with a few modifications. One is that it is fitted with the front brakes off a R34 GTR (324mm disc, Brembo 4 pot vs standard 296mm disc, Sumitomo 4 pot) with the matching master cylinder. The brakes fit unmodified. The same Brembo brake setup also came on the R32 GTR V-Spec (obviously mine is a non V-Spec). Does this require a cert?
From what i was told it came through compliance like this, only requiring a cert for the adjustable suspension.Thanks, Craig. Hi John, i have got a 1990 skyline R32 Coupe factory N/A RB20 De, i have done some extensive work to it so far and i would like to convert it to a RB20 Det,i have been tidying it up etc, it has had 15 previous owners and i have taken my time restoring it as i would like to keep it, so far the car has got Certs for kings lowering springs, Hicas removed, gearbox X mounts from the previous owner. I have converted it to 5 stud and the big 4 pot caliper brakes & brake lines and put LSD diff in it done by proffesionals do i need Certs for my Diff?, my DET motor is getting rebuild at the moment as i would like to have a peace of mind once i put it in, what’s bothering me at the moment is that the previous owner cut a hole(square) approx 20x20cm by where the factory airbox used to be just below the inner left guard as he ran a pod filter,far off from the side rail/wall and hasn’t modified the front iron bumper bar at all, would this be scrutinised when i take my car in for Certs?? As i would like to run my intercooler pipings through it.my gearbox and engine should be ready next week to be put in and i have been eliminating faults just from your replies to the questions on here(many thanks to you!).but yep i dont wana muck around and take it in for Certs straight away as this is my daily driver,as i cant afford to get it PINK stickered and any other advice would be appreciated,many thanks in advance. Hi again John, I got in contact with you couple of months ago about my R32 Skyline coupe, I have now upgraded and installed a Rb25 det motor in it note that is was only running a Rb20de, well just and update as I saw a lot of dodgy work done by the previous owner, I have installed brand new hanger bearings for the driveshaft and now waiting for the loops to turn up and installed b4 I book you in for the Certs. Hi Lins- OK so your skyline is not officially a ‘frontal impact compliant’ car, so we are just looking at general safety requirements. If it was frontal impact NO cutting would be allowed.
As it is, it will depend on the LVV Certifier’s opinion as to whether the vehicle’s safety is compromised. I think the beam you mean is a steel channel, bolted onto the bumper mounts. Other skylines can fit an inter-cooler without having to remove or cut it- I would recommend replacing the beam, and re-positioning the intercooler.
Regards- John. Hey John,I’ve recently put a Evo 6 engine/gearbox/transfer case into a 4WD mirage hatchback (CL2A), they come 4WD from factory and are very rare. The front of the car is basically an Evo 4+ and the rear is Evo 123 so all Evo parts bolt straight in which is handyI have also changed the front and rear lower control arms to Evo items and also the front and rear hubs to 5 x 114.3 Evo items.
The brake calipers and discs are also Evo items. I presume all of the above needs to be certified?Also I want to confirm, I will need 2 x drive shaft hoops and also a cat converted installed for certification?
What would the cost be to certify all the above?Many thanks!Thomas. Hi JohnDone a complete rebuild and transplanted a 1jzgte into toyota supra 1994. Hi johnquick questionshave an r32 1990 skyline coupe with standard mpec 4pot big brakesfollowing mods:rb25det + rb20det manual gearbox (from rb20det)intercooler + piping (all cut nicely and small holes) with aftermarket bov fitted on intercooler pipingrb25det side plenum (greddy copy)pod filter4″ exhaust (with silencer bolt on tip at the end to reduce noise)wastespark coil sethere is a link of a photo of the engine baywhich of these mods will need low volume cert and how much are we talking?thanks for your time. Hi JohnI have a nissan laurel c33 with rb20det and very basic modifications (adjustable suspension, intercooler etc). I was told by a certifier that i have to have a 5 stud conversion with bigger brakes for him to even look at the car. I have new discs and pads all round and has passed vtnz warrants twice.
Have you certified any A31, C33 or s13 etc with a turbo motor and four stud standard brake set up? I realise factory A31 and c33 turbos have a larger disc but i was hoping the DE brakes would be enough. Thanks in advance.
Hi Ryan- Yes I have certified many similar conversions. I have found that usually the standard brake set-up will pass the 5 stop requirement that the LVV Certification requires. That said, it should be noted that:1 VTNZ have no way of evaluating this, their roller-test does not tell if brakes are wrong for the car-e.g might fade, or imbalanced front to rear,etc, and2 Nissan models have a range of brakes available, even on the same stud pattern-e.g. I have had customers fit bigger brakes still on 4 stud hubs.Further, the LVVTA is now making Certification decisions over the Certifier’s head. So, talk to your certifier a bit more, he might have good reason to fail it, or he might have been over-ruled by LVVTA.Best wishesJohn. Hi, I am currently in the process of certifying my r32 gts to a 5 stud and rb30det.
I failed on a “no engine check light” issue as I have kept the factory ecu (Im emulating a tune into it as i drive so i can alter it with my laptop ie chip tuning) as i stated to my certifier that the cat over temp light is the light that flashes if the ecu throws an error code, however, it isn’t amber but red. He wasnt sold on this and still sent me away with a failed comment. After digging into the manuals I was able to find a section that says the light acts as a ecu fault light, same as an engine check light aswell as many forums stating the same about r32s and 33s(not sure on r34s). My question is, with supported documents and photos of rear of dash etc will this need to be sent to HQ to prove that that light acts as an ECL. Im very confused and surely my certifier will be able to make a decision on the spot?
What happens when you have a r32 come through you? Hey, im looking at taking my 1993 r32 gte sedan for a cert in the near future. I currently have put an rb25det in other that drive shaft hoops what els will it need done for cert from your knowledge?
Also wanted to get it certed adjustable suspension. Iv been told ill need aftermarket camber arms and caster arms to get out the camber? (Word of mouth not told by a certifyer) also im putting a custom a31 front on it. Any idea if this will be a problem for cert? Because nothing structal needs changed iv got custom r32 guards with the front section of an a31 making it a “cefline”. Hi CliffordI don’t understand your query- I have never been a car modifier, just a Low Volume Vehicle Certifier up until a couple of years ago.Your best approach is to performance brake specialists to see what they have availableSorry I can’t help any further.There is no charge for this free advice, but could I ask that you make a small donation to my ‘Give-a Little’ campaign? This is to cover legal costs for defending myself from Defamation charges made by Mr Johnson of the LVVTA.If you did want to, just click though to the Give-a Little page.
Hijohni have a 1988 nissan laurel c33 it was factory RB20E automatic it now has and RB20det and manual gearbox, it has a front mounted intercooler and the bumper support has not been cut but the intercooler piping has tidy holes through body no rough edges, it has brand KW bucket seats on KW brand rails and the seat belt stalks bolt to same bolt as seat mounts too,it also has 17″x 9.75″ wheels and the 5 stud and bigger 4 pot 2 pot brakes added and adjustable suspension branded BC gold it has 2 driveshaft hoops, do you see any issues with certification? Also do i need a catalytic converter, Thankyou very much. Hi BrydonThis is a great, classic Nissan conversion, and I have Certified a few! I see no problem with any of the mechanical changes- the front intercooler only has to meet the WOF ‘General safety’ requirements- that is- no sharp bits pointing forward. The Piping holes, you have probably cut a hole in the inner guard panel- that won’t look like structural weakness.
BC Gold is good stuff, just make sure it is adjusted well, and not too low, keep the wheel alignment reasonable, not excessive negative camber. Wheels and tyres seem fine, again, don’t do ‘stretched’ tyres, keep them within makers recommendations. Hi HaydenThere should be no need to custom make or modify a driveshaft.You should be able to source a stock driveshaft to fit, ideally one from the same or higher output vehicle.
You should have a good read of the LVV Standard for Engine changes, it has been extensively revised. You may not need driveshaft loops if you fit a driveshaft which matches the engine you are fitting.Hope this information helpsBest of luck with getting it Certified, you shouldn’t have any real issues.There is no charge for this free advice, but could I ask that you make a small donation to my ‘Give-a Little’ campaign? This is to cover legal costs for defending myself from Defamation charges made by Mr Johnson of the LVVTA.If you did want to, just click though to the Give-a Little page. Hi John,I’m thinking about doing the following mods to a 1994 PFL S14 (SR20DET). Which (if any) of the following mods would need a cert?-Aftermarket ECU-Aftermarket seats – Read your article on seat belt problem.
When you talk about the bracket option, Do you mean an L shaped bracket that connects to anchorage above the seat bracket?-Aftermarket Front Mounted Intercooler – Neat hole cut in battery tray for piping-3″ Exhaust – What are the rules on having a decat?Sorry if these have been answered, just want to make sure what I’ve read is correct as there’s a lot of conflicting info. Hi Matt-What a great project- only wish there had been S14’s and Skylines when I was younger!Yes- you will need a CertThe CPU will presumably produce more powerInstalling the Intercooler, the hole by the battery tray will be fine, no structure is affected by that. Just keep it neat.Seats- The LVVTA decided that you need to install a new seatbelt anchorage in the floor. You will need to get this done by a seat-belt installer- it’s not really hard but has to be done just so.Rules on Cats- The vehicle DOES need to have a Cat, as it would have originally be fitted with one. See the Exhaust Gas Emissions standard under the ‘Documents’ tab on the LVVTA siteBest of luckThere is no charge for this free advice, but could I ask that you make a small donation to my ‘Give-a Little’ campaign? This is to cover legal costs for defending myself from Defamation charges made by Mr Johnson of the LVVTA.If you did want to, just click though to the Give-a Little page.
Hi Clint-Intercooler pipes- usually holes are cut underneath the battery tray, either on one side or both, on these Nissans, the Skyline already has the left hand hole. These should be OK for a Cert. Holes in the Radiator support panel are not good, I hope you have not got holes there.
The Cert will also include the suspension, and include the ride height. Camber will have to be within 1/2 degree of spec. You may need to produce evidence about the Truhart suspension components, I don’t know this brand or what parts.What area are you in? I can’t recommend any Certifiers in Auckland, they have all left! Best you ask NZTA now!There is no charge for this free advice, but could I ask that you make a small donation to my ‘Give-a Little’ campaign? This is to cover legal costs for defending myself from Defamation charges made by Mr Johnson of the LVVTA.If you did want to, just click though to the Give-a Little page.Hope this helpsJohn.
Hi thereI am going for my cert soon. I am running Truhart camber, caster, toe and traction arms; Tein Flex Z coilovers and new rims. This is all for a 1996 Nissan 180sx.
My rims are pretty aggressive and will probably require around 4 degrees of camber allround (even though the LVVTA suspension angle guide species a max angle of -2.06). I am using high quality Toyo tires and have gone from a 205/60/15 to a 225/50/15 in the front and from 205/60/15 to a 205/55/15 in the rear. Hello!I’m looking at buying a Nissan Silvia s14 prefacelift.The car originally had an SR20DE and now has a sr20deT engine from an s13,I understand it will need driveshaft hoops, cat and the usual WOF Items for certWith the addition of the turbocharged engine the owner has installed a front-mount intercooler with square holes cut out for the piping under the battery traySecond pictureMy concern is if I buy the car I would like to be sure it can get through cert as it would be a dailyThank you. Hi JonathanThe VIRM (Warrant of Fitness Guide) allows replacement parts that are a direct replacement, and from a reputable manufacturer. No LVV Certification is involved. If these are NOT direct replacement, such as some that are made to give extra steering lock for drifting, then LVV Certification would be required, to make sure that the vehicle is still safe for the road.
I cannot tell you how the LVVTA evaluate aftermarket parts, if you do need certification for some reason, you might have to talk to them. First step would be talk to a WOF agent.CheersJohn. Hi John,now my recently purchased r32 skyline is fully certed for an rb25det and other mods such as adjustable suspension, bigger brakes, driveshaft hoops etc done mid last year, but the exhaust certification was not done. A cop has pink stickered my car just for a modified exhaust.
Could I put back on the stock exhaust for pink sticker removal, or will I have to get an exhaust certification done for any changes to the exhaust at this point? Also the car has developed an exhaust leak near manifold due to broken exhaust manifold studs. Will WOF process at VTNZ be affected or will this also have to be repaired before going in? The leak can only be fixed by remachining the bolt stud holes by removing the head as there are a few missing studs. Is this a requirement for passing of WOF, or can I temporarily put on exhaust cement around the area affected by the exhaust leak tick? Keep in mind the leak is easily visible when the hood is open and someone leans over to view the hotside.
I’m currently hearing a load of different opinions so your professional input will be much appreciated. Hi AliIf a vehicle was being Certified, there is no reason why the Exhaust would have to be included in the LVV Certification- unless there was a question of noise level.If a vehicle is Pink Stickered by the NZ Police for exhaust noise, then it MUST have the LVV Exhaust Certification, regardless of any other circumstances. A Testing station will remove the Pink sticker once that has been done. From my own experience of stripped out exhaust stud holes, these can often be Helicoil repaired IN PLACE, if you can get reasonable access.